Travel is a big part of my life, but some travel experiences stand out above all others. My visit to Salamanca, Spain in the Spring of 2007 falls into this category. After spending a week in Portugal in the Algarve area and another week on the Costa del Sol in Spain, the visit to Salamanca was almost an afterthought. It was to be part of a quick whirlwind car tour to Madrid, Salamanca and then back to Portugal where my wife and I had to return our rental car before our flight back to the U.S.
As we drove through Madrid, we decided that all we really wanted to see was Salamanca, so we continued on there without the Madrid stop. Upon arrival in Salamanca we checked into a hostel close to the old city and walked to the Plaza Mayor (Main Square). From there we walked to the university area and fell in love with Salamanca. Our one day stop suddenly turned into three days. We were hooked.
My personal interest in Salamanca began during my early university studies. I had begun a major in Spanish literature and during that time I was first introduced to Salamanca, Spain. Three items from those studies ( two of them specifically related to the University of Salamanca) stood out in my mind and made it impossible for me to forget Salamanca.
Fact 1. Salamanca was the home of the oldest university town in Spain. The exquisite architecture in the old city that I love so much dates back mostly to the 14th and 15th century. Interestingly enough, the University of Salamanca, established in 1218 by Alfonso IX, even predates these building. Although the university today offers a full course of studies and students from all over the world study there, the oldest and most historical classrooms (aulas) have been preserved as they were during its early days. As I passed by the classroom of Fray Luis de Leon (discussed below), I could not help but think that I would have had a hard time sitting on the wooden benches used by his students.
Fact 2. The picaresque novel, a literary genre founded in Spain with the publication of Lazarillo de Tormes, used the Tormes River running through Salamanca as its setting. In these novels, the Spanish picaro ("rogue" or "rascal") is used to expose injustices while doing so in a humorous manner.Huckleberry Finn in American literature falls into this category.
Fact 3. Fray Luis de Leon, a professor at the University of Salamanca during the Spanish Civil War was credited with some words that I never forgot. Salamanca was a major factor in the Spanish revolution, and some of the professors, like Fray Luis de Leon, were forced to leave for political reasons. It is said that upon his return to the class room after some years away, he began his class with "Como decia ayer..."(As I was saying yesterday...). He began at the same point in his lecture as if he had never left.
Salamanca's history parallels that of many of the oldest cities in Spain. It was founded in the pre-Roman period by Celts, was besieged by Hannibal, and later under the Romans became a commercial hub. Like much of Spain, Salamanca came under control of the Moors from 712 AD until the 12th century, at which time it was retaken by the Christians.
As stated above in relation to the Fray Luis de Leon incident, Salamanca also played a key role during the Spanish Revolution. The latest international publicity came in 2008 when the main square or Plaza Mayor was used in the movie "Vantage Point" for a shooting, bombing, and riot scene.
Some travel destinations are and should be once in a lifetime experiences. To me Salamanca is an exception. I will be back.
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